Just four minutes away from Mercer County Community College, the Village Pantry Deli on Old Trenton Road stands as a living timeline. Built around 1816, it is West Windsor’s oldest operating storefront, surviving over two centuries of change as it transitioned from a 19th-century post office and general store to a key local landmark.
Paul Ligeti, president of the Historical Society of West Windsor, said, “Each individual building matters. Each individual is part of a collective cultural fabric.”
He continued, “When you tear down a building, there’s no replacing it. Even if you replace it with an identical copy, you still don’t have the original building. As a community hub over 200 years old, [the deli] is unique.”
That community trust was forged when West Windsor was a quiet farming town of just 2,500 people.
Ligeti recalls the story of a previous owner, Douglas “Duke” Stults, who ran the shop despite being blind, relying entirely on his neighbors’ honesty to handle their change.
“There had to be some level of trust on his part,” Ligeti explains. “Back then, West Windsor was a much smaller community … everyone knew everyone back then, which to some extent fostered a greater sense of unity.”
are under $10. PHOTO | Domenica Gamero
Today, the shop enters a new chapter under Gilda Martinez, a Guatemalan immigrant who is blending deep New Jersey tradition with her own heritage. For Martinez, taking over the historic space was a family mission.
“I never thought such a small place could have so much history,” she said. “At first, there was fear—I didn’t want the business to fall. But after a few months, I realized it was a beautiful opportunity.“
The food today reflects this bridge between two worlds. The Pork Roll and Cheese remains a neighborhood staple, served rich and warm with a perfect, slight crisp on the meat. The chicken tacos are generously packed and paired with a fresh, vibrant green sauce.
This seasoning is evident in the popular hot buffet, which draws people from far beyond West Windsor. Carlos Alberto, who travels from Lakewood for work, found the deli to be a perfect midday stop.
“The food is good, it’s tasty, it looks good, and it is good,” Alberto said, enjoying a plate of pork in sauce and pasta. “It’s a very quiet place… we found this spot, and it seemed like a beautiful place to come and eat.“
Another customer, Jorge Inostroza, originally from Peru, appreciates the balance of the historic interior with the breezy outdoor area.
“It seems good to me that it has its fresh outdoor space now for the summer,” he said while enjoying the roasted chicken.
When told the building was over 200 years old, Jorge noted its preservation: “It seems good to me, it’s well-maintained.”
Even the morning routine feels personal. The black coffee is strong and dependable, served in a pour-your-own setup. It fits Martinez’s larger goal for the shop.
“I would like people to feel like they are at home,” she said. “People from all over the world come here, and I am proud of that.“
Alongside her children, she has turned the deli into a true family business. “We are always here working as a family,” Martinez said. She hopes her journey serves as an inspiration for others. “Everything you want, with effort, can be achieved,” she said. “There are no limits for any person.“
Two hundred years after its doors first opened, the Village Pantry Deli remains exactly what it was meant to be: a place for the community to gather, now with a new story to tell and some spice to share.
All quotes in italics translated from Spanish by Domenica Gamero
